Birding in East Tennessee

had a good day today.

The time I spent on top of the mountain was very pleasant and set off a chain of events that just ended up my day.

I got to the top around 9:45. I was at HCC around 9:00 but could not find anybody from Dr. Nagel's group. I suppose they must've cancelled the trip because apparently no one showed up at ETSU. I half flirted with going in to the cove but my head was already thinking of the Gray's Lilly up at the top. After lingering just a bit, I decided to go ahead and slowly drive to the top.

As I pulled into Carver's Gap, I noticed a hike getting ready to leave Carver's Gap. They were heading south to Hughes Gap. I walked over and stood a little behind and to the right of the leader making the introductory speech. He was younger guy with SAHC but I cannot remember his name. He said that he met me at the conference 2 weeks ago when I joined SAHC.

Anyhow, a question (the inevitable question) popped up if they would see any Gray's Lillies. He told them that they were just on the downside of their bloom (which normally would be true and might be in just little lower elevations that the 6000'+) but I piped in and said that they were running just a little behind this year and there were some at the Gardens that were still in budding stage. I gave brief instructions where to find them and then was off to the top (in my car) while they hit the trail.

I arrived at the top and noticed that the Cloudland Lilly was still in the budding stage right off. I hopped out of my car and went and documented the flower for today's trip. I have a crazy idea of having a series of pictures showing the budding stage in varies stages until it blooms. I just hope I can get a pic before something happens to the flower (like some idiot picks it). The one behind it was still budding and has been nodding since Wednesday.

I walked over to the gift shop and talked with the a few of the ladies with Pisgah National Forest. One seemed pretty interested in my interest with the gray's Lilly. She asked me if I had seen the "Red Bud" and promptly set out to show it to me. On the way over I mentioned the Lilly at the end of Cloudland Trail and how there were at least 3 which seemed to puzzle her. So we made a quick detour to show her. I started rummaging around to find the runt flower that was still in leave form and not only did I find the one, I found 2 or 3 more. So I think right by the trail there are 2 flowers that will bloom and about 4 that probably won't because they were blocked out by the other plants.

We left this site and went toward the stop sign (for those exiting the gravel parking area) and across the road. So we were standing on the edge of the clearing between Cloudland Trail and the gravel entrance road. She pointed to a single Gray's Lilly that had a red bud getting ready to bloom seemingly any minute. After getting a few picture, I walked out Cloudland trail and back again.

Upon returning to the Rhododendron Parking area I started talking to this couple taking pictures. They were from Johnson City and had moved to the area about four years ago. He told this moving story of how Gray's Lillies were very religious for him. A couple of years ago, his daughter was murdered. He was having a very hard time in the aftermath of this tragedy and discovered hiking from Carver's Gap to Yellow Mountain. On one of these hikes, he spotted his first Gray's Lilly. As he went over to take its picture, his wife/girlfriend (not sure) stumbled and just felt that she shouldn't follow. She noticed that he had been engulfed by a low moving cloud. He had walked over to the Lilly and knelt down to take it's picture. The first picture went off fine but the second picture was like a picture that had all the color taken out of it (grayscale). It was during this time that he prayed for the first time since his daughter's death. He was very appreciative for me showing him Gray's Lillies without him having to walk too far. Now seeing a Gray's Lilly is really a special experience for him.

As I started to leave the garden area, I noticed the hikers emerging into the Cloudland Parking Lot. I walked over and started talking to the group and they were breaking for their lunch. After they finished we all walked over to the Garden area where they were delighted to see the Gray's Lillies as well. There was also a couple with the Appalachian Trail Conference that were "on their own" and appreciated the Lilly excursion.

After we returned to the parking area, one of the hikers (Rosy) asked me for my email address so she could contact me after she returned home for a picture exchange. She also invited me to the opening ceremony of the Appalachian Trail Conference meeting where they would be debuting the name change to Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

I thought about the conference meeting the whole time I drove home and decided to go. I arrived at ETSU with plenty time to spare. Rosy (who by the way was grandmother like but a very good hiker from Baltimore, MD) saw me walk by and asked me to join their group during the program. During the program I found out the today (7/2/05) is the 100th year anniversary (to the day) for the United States Forestry Service and this weekend was the 80th year for the Appalachian Trail Conference. Pretty cool. I also had the opportunity to listen to the director of the National Park System who was hand picked by the President of the United States. More cool stuff.

I just felt honored being in the company of so many tremendous hikers and conservationalists.

I had a real good day.

From the Journal of Rob Biller

Birding across Roan Mountain
with Western North Carolina Bird Club and Their Senator

June 25, 2005

The Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy’s Seasonal Ecologist, Nora Schubert, picked me up at 7:15am and with one quick stop for gas and coffee, we were on our way to meet the Senator Joe Sam Queen and the rest of the birders from Western North Carolina. We arrived at the Creekside Restaurant in Bakersville, North Carolina around 8:20am. Thinking we must have miscommunicated about the meeting location (because of the lack of cars) we gingerly step inside. A quick scan of the main dining area told us that those scattered in the immediate dining area were not with the birding group; most looked to be small families. On our way out the door, Nora asks the young girl by the cash register if there have been any bird watching groups in the restaurant earlier that morning. I braced myself for the blank stare, the puzzled look, and the repetition of the word “Bird Watcher,” as is usually the case. Instead, and to my surprise, she said that someone had just asked a similar question and they had stepped in the back for a moment. Then, another moment later, we meet our first birder from Western North Carolina. We all sat down and ordered coffee and biscuits until the rest of the group arrived led by the Senator and his wife, Kate. After the greetings and all the introductions were made, we were ready to do some serious birding on Roan Mountain.

Because we were on the North Carolina side of Roan Mountain, we decided to start at Carver’s Gap. This high elevation start to the morning had some definite possibilities for a good start. Nora lead us on a quick loop on part of the Appalachian Trail from the road to the parking area restrooms where we sample Red-breasted Nuthatch, Canada Warbler, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Veery, Winter Wren, Pine Siskins, and a single, female Red Crossbill. We arrive back at the parking area where we find a Chestnut-sided Warbler singing along with an Appalachian race of the Dark-eyed Junco. Next we hike up Round Bald where we find more Chestnut-sided Warlbers, Juncos, Cedar Waxwings, a houseless House Wren, and a Ruby-throated Hummingbird checking out the purple bloom of the Catawba Rhododendrons. At Engine Gap we reached our hiking prize of a couple of endangered Gray’s Lillies, but were not rewarded by their bloom. They were in the bud stage and would need a little more time to muster enough energy to open their beautiful orange-red bloom. The Flaming Azaleas were enough of a reward as they were still in full bloom.

Next we carpooled down the Tennessee side of the mountain to a favorite stop known as Hummingbird Hill. While I was speaking with the people who live in the large A-frame house, the group had a Buteo that they could not get a handle on. Some were going with immature Red-tail and others thought Broad-winged, but it would officially be written down as Buteo species. Here we were also treated with the full song of a Veery’s flute (instead of just the “veer” we heard at Carver’s Gap), and a Least Flycatcher. We were also delighted with a well concealed Dark-eyed Junco nest. The nest was located in the garden of the local resident and contained three babies securely huddled together.

For lunch we stopped at the Twin Springs Recreational area of the Cherokee National Forest. Having the whole area to ourselves, we are able to add to our list Ovenbird, Blue-headed Vireo, Red-eyed Vireo, Hairy Woodpecker, and Downy Woodpecker. From here we would drive to Hampton Creek Cove, a very special place on Roan Mountain.

Hampton Creek Cove is a 693-acre Tennessee designated Natural Area on the Roan Mountain Massif. This large tract of land is home to the National Historic Overmountain Victory Trail, a major restoration point for Eastern Brook Trout, nesting area for the declining Golden-winged Warbler, and an 150-year old farmstead that is still maintained by a caretaker that keeps with all the cultural traditions of working the land. Hampton Creek Cove is the largest, non-federal tract of land that belongs to the highly significant and important Highlands of the Roan; and, because it is such an important area, the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy (SAHC) worked with the previous landowners to protect the tract of land. After acquiring the land, the SAHC sold the land to the state of Tennessee in 1986 with leases and agreements in place to allow SAHC to continue to monitor and manage this naturally and historically significant land. A large portion of the Seasonal Ecologist’s duties for SAHC is to help manage, maintain, and monitor the Hampton Creek Cove Natural Area.

As we entered the Natural Area, Senator and Overmountain Man Club member Joe Sam Queen gave the bird group a brief history of the trail and the men who made it historic. It wasn’t long after that we were seeing lots of butterflies. The Silver Spotted Skipper must have just exploded on the scene as they were everywhere. Fritillary Butterflies of the family Nymphalidae were also quite popular and abundant. The Butterfly that got most people’s attention though was the Painted Lady. Everyone rushed over to see this little beauty. We had a nice bird list as well. A Golden-winged Warbler was heard singing but would only give brief appearances to tease us, other birds included Gray Catbird, Tree Swallow, Least Flycatcher, Yellow Warbler, Eastern Wood Pewee, White-eyed Vireo, Wild Turkey (and young), Indigo Buntings, Acadian Flycatcher, Eastern Bluebird, Eastern Towhee, Hooded Warbler, Downy Woodpecker, Veery, Wood Thrush, Song Sparrow, Field Sparrow, Canada Warbler, Red-eyed Vireo, Barn Swallows, Red-winged Blackbirds, and a couple of Northern Bobwhites.

After leaving Hampton Creek Cove, we added Black and White Warbler and White-breasted Nuthatch at a brief stop in the Roan Mountain State Park Campgrounds. Then at another brief stop at Jack’s Grocery in Burbank, TN we added Chimney Swift, and House Sparrow. Our final stop was at Golden-winged Warbler Curve. I named this long curve just above Burbank this because I have gotten Golden-winged Warblers at the location many times before, but it is also just a good birding stop in general. While we don’t hear or see any of the curve’s namesakes, we do add to our list Rose-breasted Grosbeak.

All that was left to do was compile our list. (See below for complete bird, plant, and butterfly list.) We used Carver’s Gap overflow parking to fellowship about the bird, plant, and butterfly highlights that were spotted that day and the good time had by all. Nora handed out SAHC brochures and explained how individual memberships to the Conservancy and donations greatly contribute to the protection of land on Roan Massif. She went on to explain how there are volunteer summer workshops that the SAHC performs on Roan Mountain to keep the blackberry at bay over the balds or helping to clear the Overmountain Trail in Hampton Creek Cove. Many thanks go to Nora Schubert, Senator Joe Sam Queen, and his wife Kate for a tremendous trip over my favorite mountain in Tennessee. Also thanks to Beth Brinson for sending the trip list and for her extreme knowledge of flowering plants.

After picking up Nora’s car in Bakersville, we return to Carver’s Gap and make the turn to check out a few specialties at the highest elevations on Roan Massif. We were happily surprised to discover two to three more Endangered Gray’s Lillies budding out and the equally endangered Roan Mountain Bluets just starting to bloom. Other high elevation plants included Tassel Rue, St. John’s Wort, Lesser Stichwort, Common Cinquefoil, one of the two high elevation species of Ragwort, Canada Mayflower, Mountain Bluet, and the endangered Spreading Avens (Geum radiatum).

Rob Biller
June 26, 2005

Authors Note: As I sat in my car at Hampton Creek Cove parking area writing the above entry I heard/saw the following species of birds: Yellow Warbler, Least Flycatcher, Downy Woodpecker, Hairy Woodpecker, American Robin, Red-winged Blackbird, Mourning Doves, Song Sparrow, Common Yellowthroat, Gray Catbird, Indigo Bunting, Cowbirds, Eastern Towhee, Blue Jay, Wood Thrush, and Cedar Waxwings. After the rain quit, a brief walk into the lower part of the cove added Northern Bobwhite and a Golden-winged Warbler. A brief conversation with Nora would add Alder Flycatcher to the 2005 Hampton Creek Cove bird list. She had run into Fred Alsop as he exited the property earlier in the day and told her about a singing Alder Flycatcher which she also heard. Fred has had them in the cove before but not for a couple of years or so.

The complete bird, plant, and butterfly list:

Bird List:

Turkey Vulture
Red-tailed Hawk
Wild Turkey
Northern Bobwhite
Mourning Dove
Chimney Swift
Ruby-throated Hummingbird
Downy Woodpecker
Hairy Woodpecker
Pileated Woodpecker
Eastern Wood-Pewee
Acadian Flycatcher
Least Flycatcher
Eastern Phoebe
White-eyed Vireo
Blue-headed Vireo
Red-eyed Vireo
Blue Jay
American Crow
Tree Swallow
Barn Swallow
Carolina Chickadee
Tufted Titmouse
Red-breasted Nuthatch
White-breasted Nuthatch
Brown Creeper
House Wren
Winter Wren
Golden-crowned Kinglet
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Eastern Bluebird
Veery
American Robin
Gray Catbird
European Starling
Cedar Waxwing
Golden-winged Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Chestnut-sided Warbler
Black-and-White Warbler
Ovenbird
Common Yellowthroat
Hooded Warbler
Canada Warbler
Eastern Towhee
Chipping Sparrow
Field Sparrow
Song Sparrow
Dark-eyed Junco
Northern Cardinal
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Indigo Bunting
Red-winged Blackbird
Brown-headed Cowbird
Red Crossbill
Pine Siskin
American Goldfinch
House Sparrow

Notable Plants:

Catawba Rhododendron
Flame Azalea
American Mountain-ash
Thyme-leaved Bluets
Purple Bluets
Three-toothed Cinquefoil
Rough Cinquefoil
Common Cinquefoil
Green Alder
Skunk Currant
Golden Ragwort
Robbins'/Schweinitz's Ragwort
King Devil
Michaux's Saxifrage
Mountain Wood Sorrel
Canada Mayflower
Gray's Lily (bud)
Mountain Cranberry
Sanicle
White Madder
Lesser Stitchwort
Black-eyed Susan
Yarrow
Ox-eye Daisy

Butterflies:

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail
Cabbage White
Clouded Sulphur
Orange Sulphur
Azure sp.
Great Spangled Fritillary
Pearl Crescent
Painted Lady
Silver-spotted Skipper

First I want to apologize for missing the compilation Sunday afternoon for the Lee and Lois Herndon TOS breeding bird summer count. Being caught in a Thunder / Hail Storm while on the Appalachian Trail between Carver's Gap and the Rhododendron Gardens will tend to cause a delay. As the hail was stinging of the back of my neck (as I had no type of rain protection) I knew I wasn't going to make it. I arrived back at my car at Carver's Gap at 2:15, which was too late to even try. Again my apologizes.

I stayed on Roan Mt Friday (June 17) night so I decided to go and check for Saw-whet Owls Friday night / Early Saturday morning. At 11:40pm (Friday) I got a single SAW-WHET OWL to respond to my whistling from the Carver's Gap parking area. This bird was in the general vicinity of the nest box structure off the main road leading up to the rhododendron gardens. I never saw the bird but that is where the sound was coming from. I decided to hang around until 12:01am (Saturday June 18) to officially count this bird before heading back to the house in Burbank where I was staying.

By 5:00, I was again back at Carver's Gap listening to the same Saw-whet Owl (at least this was from the same direction). I found it interesting that before it was really light on top of the mountain, 3 ALDER FLYCATCHERS were singing from their perches deep within the blankets of Alders in the Carver's Gap area. So now I am thinking at that before 6am I have had two pretty rare species for our area and how this could shape up to be a really good day.

Near 6am I walk up the main road for just a little bit where I hear a bird sing with 2 distinct notes at the beginning then sounding like a tired Winter Wren. What I mean is it was bubbling over itself like a Winter Wren does but just not as excited about it. I immediately think RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (especially with the 2 distinct high notes at the beginning). Try as I might, I was not able to get a visual identification. I include it on this list because Nora Schubert, Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy's Seasonal Ecologist, described the exact same song as I described (and again with no visual).."two distinct high notes before and the rest just not like a Winter Wren." I will let the powers that be decide whether or not that is enough evidence, but I think that is what it was.

I had decided that from between 6 and 9am I would scramble to as many places on Roan Mt as possible. I did this with the hopes of getting as many birds singing as possible while keeping good records to what I had where as not to count the birds twice upon my return visit.

By 9am I was back at Carver's Gap to sample more high elevation birds (where I saw one of the Alder Flycatchers singing from an Alder branch between the parking areas). I walked with the group from SAHC (led by Nora Schubert) part of the way up the Appalachian Trail heading toward the Rhododendron Gardens. Here we sample Golden-crowned Kinglet, Red-breasted Nuthatches, Winter Wrens, and Veerys.

From here I blanket Roan Mt from top to bottom; hitting all the good spots I know about and get a fair share of more birds to add. Around 11am I turn up to the Miller's Homestead and walk out the trail past the overlook platform. I had high hopes to get a certain bird here and was not disappointed as I heard a YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER call and peck from his tree to the west of the trail.

The rest of the day was spent skirting the bottom of the mountain, the town of Roan Mtn (where I did find the elusive Northern Mockingbird, but NO Killdeer), and a lengthly afternoon trip to Ripshin Lake Area (where I had to wait out a 35-40 minute downpour). At 6pm and after 13 hours in the field, I called it quits with 80 species of birds. Big misses were both Vultures, Broad-winged Hawk, Sharp-shinned Hawk, Cooper's Hawk, Killdeer, Rock Dove, Screech Owl, Louisiana Waterthrush, and both Orioles. The complete list follows:

Rack Cross was doing his point count for the Tennessee State Ornithologist in the Hampton Creek Cove area and his count has been added to this FINAL list. It is signifigant to note that Rack added another 2 species to the count (at least for my area) - Northern Bobwhite and Cedar Waxwings! This ups my area to 82 species. Thanks Rack!!

The complete list:

Start Temp 45F (at Carver's Gap)
End Temp 75F
Total Mileage 127
Owling Miles 20
Birding Miles 107
Owling time 1.5 hours
Birding time 11.5 hours
Total Birding Time 13 hours

Birding Party - Rob Biller with help from Rack Cross, Mike Poe, and Nora Schubert

Canada Goose (Ripshin area) 10
Northern Bobwhite 2 (Rack Cross)
Red-tailed Hawk 1
Mourning Dove 40
Great Horned Owl 1
Barred Owl 1
Northern Saw-whet Owl 1
Chimney Swift 3
Ruby-throated Hummingbird 6
Red-bellied Woodpecker 1
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker (Miller Homestead) 1
Downy Woodpecker 3
Hairy Woodpecker 4
Northern Flicker 1
Pileated Woodpecker 4
Eastern Wood-Pewee 4
Acadian Flycatcher 2
Alder Flycatcher 3
Willow Flycatcher 2
Least Flycatcher 15
Eastern Phoebe 6
Eastern Kingbird 2
White-eyed Vireo 1
Blue-headed Vireo 6
Red-eyed Vireo 12
Blue Jay 17
American Crow 62
Common Raven 1
Tree Swallow 6
Northern Rough-winged Swallow 2
Barn Swallow 6
Carolina Chickadee 4
Tufted Titmouse 4
Red-breasted Nuthatch 3
White-breasted Nuthatch 2
Carolina Wren 1
House Wren 9
Winter Wren 4
Golden-crowned Kinglet 11
Ruby-crowned Kinglet 1
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher 1
Eastern Bluebird 5
Veery 9
Hermit Thrush 1 (Mike Poe and Rob Biller) [can't count the one in NC!]
Wood Thrush 6
American Robin 106
Gray Catbird 12
Northern Mockingbird 3
Brown Thrasher 2
Cedar Waxwing 18
European Starling 11
Golden-wingeed Warbler 3
Northern Parula 1
Yellow Warbler 10
Chestnut-sided Warbler 21
Black-throated Blue Warbler 13
Yellow-rumped Warbler 1 (Nora Schubert)
Black-throated Green Warbler 5
Black-&-White Warbler 1
American Redstart 3
Worm-eating Warbler 1
Ovenbird 7
Common Yellowthroat 8
Hooded Warbler 5
Canada Warbler 4
Yellow-breasted Chat 3
Scarlet Tanager 6
Eastern Towhee 29
Chipping Sparrow 12
Field Sparrow 19
Song Sparrow 38
Dark-eyed Junco 43
Northen Cardinal 3
Indigo Bunting 19
Red-winged Blackbird 43
Eastern Meadowlark 1
Common Grackle 14
Brown-headed Cowbird 5
House Finch 6
Pine Siskin 2
American Goldfinch 15
House Sparrow 1